Skincare marketing runs on adjectives. We wanted the opposite: for every product, the research, how big the study was, and what it can’t tell you. The routine is built in three layers: the two things that matter most, the daily basics, and targeted treatments for specific goals.
Jan Marini Skin Research is now called Marini SkinSolutions. Links on this page are affiliate links through ShopMy and Amazon Associates. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases, which means we may earn a commission at no cost to you. It never changes what we recommend or how we rate the evidence.
IF YOU ONLY DO TWO THINGSSunscreen and a retinoid
Of everything in skincare, these two have the most research behind them. Daily sunscreen prevents damage; a retinoid repairs some of what’s already there. Start here before buying anything else.
The science · Evidence: strong
Sunscreen: in a randomized trial of 903 adults followed for four and a half years, people assigned to daily sunscreen showed no detectable increase in skin aging, while those who used it occasionally kept aging. The daily group came out about 24% better.
Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013.
Retinoids: in a controlled trial, adults who applied 0.4% retinol for 24 weeks had significantly fewer fine wrinkles than those using a plain lotion. Prescription tretinoin has an even deeper research base; ask a dermatologist if you want the stronger version.
Kafi R, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 2007.
THE BASE ROUTINE · MORNINGCleanse, vitamin C, SPF
Keep mornings simple: a gentle cleanse, an antioxidant, and sunscreen as the last step, every day, including cloudy ones.
The science · Evidence: moderate
A 2017 review found that topical vitamin C reduces signs of sun damage and wrinkling by limiting collagen breakdown. Most of the evidence is for L-ascorbic acid at 10 to 20%, and stable formulas are hard to make, so check which form your serum uses.
Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ. Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2017.
The science · Evidence: strong
See the sunscreen trial above. Use about a quarter teaspoon for the face and reapply when you’re outdoors.
Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013.
THE BASE ROUTINE · EVENINGExfoliating cleanse, retinoid, moisturize
Evenings do the repair work. Start a retinoid two or three nights a week and build up; dryness and flaking at first are normal. Skip retinoids if you are pregnant or trying to be.
The science · Evidence: limited
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that loosens dead skin cells. The classic study is small: about 17 people used a leave-on alpha hydroxy acid lotion for six months and had thicker, healthier-looking skin under the microscope. A cleanser is rinsed off in a minute, so expect gentler results.
Ditre CM, et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 1996.
The science · Evidence: good
See the retinol trial above. If you’re acne-prone, the Age Intervention Duality below combines retinol with an acne treatment.
Kafi R, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 2007.
TARGETED · ACNEBenzoyl peroxide plus a retinoid
For breakouts, the American Academy of Dermatology’s guidelines give their strongest recommendation to benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids, and suggest combining treatments that work in different ways.
The science · Evidence: strong for the ingredients
The 2024 AAD acne guidelines strongly recommend benzoyl peroxide and topical retinoids. This product keeps the two in separate chambers so they stay stable. At 10%, the benzoyl peroxide can be drying and can bleach towels and pillowcases; use it at night and moisturize.
Reynolds RV, Yeung H, Cheng CE, et al. Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2024.
TARGETED · PEPTIDESNice to have, not a must
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that, in theory, signal skin to make more collagen. They are gentle and pair well with everything, but the evidence is thinner than the marketing.
The science · Evidence: limited
A 2024 systematic review of topical peptide and exosome treatments found encouraging early results, but mostly from small, short studies, many run by the companies that sell the ingredients. Treat peptides as a supporting player behind sunscreen and a retinoid.
TARGETED · 2–3× A WEEKRed light
Red and near-infrared light therapy is the most hyped step here. The early research is encouraging; at-home masks vary a lot in power.
The science · Evidence: moderate
In a controlled trial of 136 volunteers, twice-weekly red and near-infrared light treatments improved skin complexion, roughness and collagen density compared with a control group. The study used clinical-grade equipment, so home masks may do less.
Wunsch A, Matuschka K. A controlled trial to determine the efficacy of red and near-infrared light treatment in patient satisfaction, reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, skin roughness, and intradermal collagen density increase. Photomedicine and Laser Surgery, 2014.
TARGETED · VOLUMEVolufiline
Volufiline is an ingredient from the ingredient maker Sederma, made from the root of the plant Anemarrhena asphodeloides. It is marketed to add volume by encouraging fat cells to grow.
The science · Evidence: weak
The evidence comes from the manufacturer: lab studies on cells and a two-month company trial that reported up to 8.4% more rounding of the chest area. We found no independent, peer-reviewed clinical trials. Try it if you’re curious, but expect modest results.
Volufiline ingredient profile, Cosmetics & Toiletries.
TARGETED · DAILYCollagen and vitamins
Supplements are where the evidence gets thinnest, so we keep this step simple.
The science · Evidence: moderate, with caveats
A 2023 analysis pooling 26 randomized trials and about 1,700 people found that oral collagen improved skin hydration and elasticity. Many of those trials were funded by supplement makers, so treat the effect as promising, not settled. For vitamins, research mostly shows benefit when you’re actually low in something; get bloodwork before buying a cabinet of bottles.
Pu SY, et al. Effects of Oral Collagen for Skin Anti-Aging: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Nutrients, 2023.
This is general information, not medical advice. Talk to a dermatologist or doctor before starting a new routine, especially retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, supplements or light therapy if you are pregnant, take medication, or have a skin condition.